Don’t mess with these proportions. They are perfect as they are. These are the instructions that Russell Norman, the restaurateur behind the now closed Polpo in London, gives in his Venetian cookbook of the same name. There is such symmetry and balance in a negroni, he explains – equal measures of gin, Campari and sweet vermouth – that it cannot fail to put a smile on your face.
In Aperitivo Cicchetti, the new Venetian-inspired restaurant in Dublin 2, created by the creators of Port House, the house’s negroni is poured from a decanter at the table into a chilled cocktail glass. There is no ice; it can be kept cool in the fridge, and the relatively affordable price of €7.50 would explain its small 50ml format which may not make everyone smile. A Garibaldi (€10), in a 160ml Bellini Cipriani glass, is a sparkling blend of Campari and fresh orange juice, a symbiotic delight.
An aperitif is a relatively low alcohol drink, hence the smaller size of the negroni I imagine. It is designed to be enjoyed with a few small bites at the bar, to whet the appetite before dinner. For something a little longer, the Aperol spritz is the classic choice and is clearly a favorite of millennials who glam up in this gorgeous piece.
Raffaele Celentano’s famous Campari pendant and table lamps are the first thing you’ll notice when you walk through the door of this rather compact restaurant. Each shade is made up of 10 small Campari bottles, casting jewel red light across the dark wood bar with hammered copper panels, the teal-colored walls and rows of backlit bottles. A yellow neon Negroni sign sits above the mute waiter; and a mirror reflects the drama, running the length of the room on the opposite wall. It’s beautiful and atmospheric, all the glamor and fun of the 1950s.
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We order white wine from a list that hovers dangerously close to €40 a bottle on the low end but has quite a few options by the glass. Soave Classico 150ml (€8.80) and Vermentino (€10.20) crisp up as they should with the fritto misto (€14), from the fritti (fried) section of the menu. It is a typical Venetian dish, traditionally prepared from the daily catch of fish sold at the Rialto market. Here it’s whitebait, shrimp and tiny calamari, and a scattering of zucchini fries; all hot and crispy after being fried in the lightest batter and sprinkled with salt with confidence. It’s a plate to share for two, and a dish that you simply have to order.
The menu is divided into sections and, after the fritti, 11 baked pastas and entrees, fried mini calzone pizzas, meat, seafood and, of course, desserts. I take the precaution of ordering only a few dishes at a time, but there is no risk of stacking here: the dishes arrive on our very small table when we are ready. The service is delicious.
The Parmigiana di melanzane (€11.50), shimmering eggplant slices topped with tomato and mozzarella sauce, sprinkled with grated parmesan, is deliciously moist and tasty; goes nicely with Maretti Lange Rosso (€8.80) and Chianti Riserva (€9.60) glasses. The artisan gnocchi (€7.50) are reassuringly irregular in size, bathed in a creamy gorgonzola sauce, rounded off with the crunch of freshly ground black pepper and a whisper of something else; dried porcini mushrooms perhaps? Or maybe it’s just butter. This is delicious.
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Saltimbocca di pollo (€11) is our last savory dish, two strips of chicken wrapped in crispy prosciutto, served with a Marsala sauce. The chicken, unfortunately, is not free-range, but the dish is very good; Marsala has superpowers. A good bowl of new potatoes, roasted with rosemary and garlic (€5), goes well.
For dessert, the sabayon (€7), this alchemical alliance of foamy egg yolks with Marsala, and classic plain biscotti; and sorbetto al campari (€5), a mature slushy with earthy, bitter notes.
Aperitivo is a really delicious restaurant. It’s all about the detail, from the traditional wait staff uniforms — crisp white jackets, white aprons and Dickie bows — to the free limoncello when you call for the bill. Although you can get a tab on cocktails and wine, the food is very tasty and well priced. Small plates aren’t going out of style anytime soon. Especially the divine fritto misto.
Dinner for two with two cocktails and four glasses of wine was €130.
THE VERDICT: A glam atmosphere with tasty small plates
Music: Rosemary Clooney, Frank Sinatra and jazz
Source of food: Spain Perez Vinas for fish, shipped direct; chicken from Ryan’s Meat, non-farm; Keelings vegetables
Vegetarian options: Lots of choices including gnocchi al Gorgonzola, tagliatelle con funghi porcini, cacio e pepe and spinach and cheese tortellini. Vegan choices are limited
Wheelchair access: Accessible, with accessible washrooms
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